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The Loudspeaker-1, built by Paul, US |
Hi, Troels 28-06-2023: I already mentioned that I hit snags along the
way that dragged out my project. I also did everything myself, in my
garage, which I do not recommend. Get Help! What I have going for me is
60+ years of Audio, including DIY, and 50+ years as a Master Carpenter
and Builder. “Circumventing” giant panel saws, I put a nice 60 tooth
Diablo blade on my Skilsaw, and I used straight edges clamped to the
panels to cut all parts from 5’ X 5’ X 1” Baltic birch plywood, with
additional 15mm MDF laminated (total 40+mm) for the front baffles. I
made sub-assemblies for the braces/midrange boxes and the X/O boxes. I
used large biscuits on the mitered corners and small biscuits to keep
all other mating parts aligned during assembly, glue-up and clamping. I
dry assembled and clamped all parts and assemblies repeatedly, making
necessary adjustments until everything fit together perfectly before
committing to glue, at each stage along the way. I tested several glues
before settling on Titebond polyurethane multi-surface adhesive for the
casework, and Henry 1171N “Surelock” adhesive for the laminations and
for gluing (as opposed to stapling) cabinet dampening materials. I could
not have done the project without the 25 minute working time the
Titebond polyurethane affords! After testing, I decided not to include
the extra bracing or horn box Troels used for his TL2s. I did glue in
“critically sized and located” pieces of 15mm MDF above and below, in
the horn alcove. As I have done for years, based on tests, I “parged”
inside the cabinets with stone and large format tile mortar, about 40
pounds (dry weight) per cabinet. I prefer this treatment to bituthane,
sheet asphalt, or mass-loaded vinyl tile. I used the recommended 4” ABS
pipe for ports, and I wrapped each port in thin, self-stick bituthane
(waterproof flashing…) before gluing the ports into the front baffles. I
went for the all-passive X/Os, wired part to part, set-up for bi-wiring
from 1 amp per channel. My amps are Marantz MA-9S2 monoblocks that put
out 300W into 8 Ohms and 600W into 4 Ohms, and they are made for
bi-wiring. I used 12 AWG Speltz Anti-Cable wiring. I tested and came up
with a solution for horn ringing: “Mortite”/modeling clay/electrician’s
putty, applied to the horn as shown in the picture. The black screws
included in the Jantzen kit (1/4” head diameter) drove right through the
woofer frame, so I used #8 X 1 ¼” truss head screws instead (3/8” head
diameter) for the woofer only. Too bad these screws are silver. I’ll
trade them for a black version if I see it. I took a couple of wrong
turns and made the wood finishing way harder than it needed to be, but
Birch is tough to stain dark, in any case. Based on my trials, the right
way to do it the best and the “fastest” (no do-overs…) would have been:
Charles Neil prep/filler; General Finishes oil based gel stain; Minwax
oil based wipe-on Poly. Let everything dry thoroughly and sand very
lightly between coats.
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