Go to on this page:
DRIVERS
CROSSOVER
CABINET
MEASUREMENTS
SPEAKER-KIT
CROSSOVER-LAYOUT
D3004/604010
Making small minis is fun! I made a small mini for ScanSpeak's 2014 Munich Highend show, and I'm still waiting for the new
12WU (see
June 2014 post) driver to be launched. Until then we might take a look
at the smallest midbass driver in the Discovery range, the 12W/8524G00.
It goes without saying this provides a significant reduction in building
costs and adding to this is the use of the R3004/602010 in replacement
of the Be dome used for the Munich show. The R3004/602010 is not exactly
cheap at 145 EUR, but the small size comes handy and basically offers
the same quality in sound compared to standard face-plate ring radiators
in the Illuminator range of tweeters, like R3004/662000. Using the
R2604/832000 would mean we have to start cutting the face-plate and
I don't want to do this. In total the drivers alone are 409 EUR. We can get a more speaker for the same
money, but not this small. And this speaker must be small to suit desk
top application and small sound systems. And why not make your kids get
used to good sound from an e.g.
NAD 3020D amp, being fed from a laptop or other digital sources? The
DISC-12W may be a way to better sound culture.

Before you start building such small speakers, be sure you realise
what a modest 59 cm^2 membrane area can do. From the cabinet size we
have F3 = ~70 Hz. Don't expect gut shaking, earthquake impact on your
listening room. There are limits to how much air such small membranes
can move. But the midrange...many of these small 4" drivers deliver a
midrange so smooth and dynamic.
The 602010
tweeter is costly compared to the 12W, but it's just sooo good - and
it's small.
Don't place the Discovery 12Ws too far apart, 1.5-2 meters is ideal from
a similar listening distance. You can place the speakers close to the
wall and get some more bass impact although this - as always - reduce
the sense of soundstage depth. Hope you enjoy!
Basics:
System sensitivity: 85 dB/2.8V, 1 meter.
Impedance: 8 Ohms.
Amplifier requirement: Minimum 5-10 watts.
Power handling: 40 watts (ScanSpeak specifications).
DRIVERS
BACK TO INDEX

Click images to view large.
Download specs here:
12W/8524G00
R3004/602010
CROSSOVER
BACK TO INDEX

Crossover components' values come with the kit.
Fine-tuning the crossover always require minor changes to components'
values, but the final set-up didn't change from the simulation. LCR2031
just removes a tiny bit too much energy around 1 kHz and LCR 1041
handles tweeter impedance bump and smooths roll-off towards lower
frequences, thus also improves power handling. R2012+C2011 suppress a
minor 12W peak in the 7-8 kHz area, which would otherwise mingle with
treble performance. This is a small speaker with an overall very neutral
and balanced presentation.
CABINET
BACK TO INDEX

Above box simulation. As can be seen, 4 liter
closed makes Qtc = 0.63, but here we want a little bass boost and use a
vented design.
If you have to place the speaker close to the wall, you may try stuffing
the vents with some acoustilux.
If you stuff the port lightly, you'll have an aperiodic tuning. Stuff hard
and we have a closed box.
I finally decided on Fb = 65 Hz, port length 10 cm. Cut supplied port to
10 cm length.

Click image to view large
The cabinets were designed for 20 mm black MDF, actually HDF,
high-density fiber board.
Alternatively use 19 mm standard MDF. The W12 baffle can be from 18-20 mm thickness. Do remember
chamfering the
12W driver hole as shown on drawing. Due to the combined thickness of
the front panel, the small driver needs room to breathe.
I used 8 mm felt on sides, top and bottom of cabinet. On top of the
crossover I placed at 100 x 150 mm acoustilux
damping material (30 mm thick). That's all the damping needed.
Rear panel is fastened with 6 long wood screws as it also serves as the
crossover board, thus easily accessible for tweaking and
tweeter level adjustment.

Except for the rear panel, all is cut 45 deg.

Test assembly of front panel.

Routing for the tweeter takes special care. It's really tiny compared to
standard face plates.
The rear hole for the 12W is 127 mm diameter.

Chamfer rear bass driver hole as seen on photo. 45 deg. some half way
through.
Chamfer 12W front panel 45 deg to 5 mm from driver rebate.

Left: This is how the it should look to provide proper ventilation for
the midbass driver.

These cabs were glued using tape only. Apply a not too thick layer of
glue and pull the tape hard just before it brakes.
Using tape only requires all panels are cut fairly accurate.
Left: Finding nice black screws for the tweeter is kind of a problem!
Screw heads need to be some 5.8 mm diameter. It would be a nice feature
from ScanSpeak to provide 6 suitable screws with the kit.

Left: You need to expand tweeter hole a little as seen on photo.
Tweeter
housing needs a little more space. Use chisel or plunge a router bit
three times into the panel as I did here.
Right: Cabs sanded and time to glue outer 12W panel in place.

Cabs sanded and ready for terminals and port.

Routing for port and holes for terminals made and marking space for
crossover.

There's very little space for the screws. I used 6 screws slightly
tilted to enter the middle of the side panels, thus does not fracture
the MDF.

Damping is easy. Cut a 10 cm strip of 8 mm felt. Make cut-out for L2011 and the tweeter and glue the felt to the front end of the cabinet.
When all is mounted and wires are connected to drivers, cut a 10 x 15 cm
piece of 30 mm acoustilux to cover the crossover. That's all.

The final speakers were given a mineral wax treatment. I like the raw,
black MDF appearance and wanted to keep it that way.
MEASUREMENTS
BACK TO INDEX
A few comments on MEASUREMENTS before you start interpreting all the
readings below. First of all, if we think measurements will tell us how
a speaker sounds, we're wrong, very much wrong indeed. The perception of
sound is way too subjective to be reflected in any measurements we can
perform. A loudspeaker system is meant to give us a satisfying idea of
an acoustic event and for some people a pair of 5 USD ear-plugs are
enough, others spend 200 kUSD on a truly full-range pair of speakers -
and the latter may not be happier than the former. Measurements may give
us an idea of tonal balance of a system, i.e. too much or too little
energy in certain areas. Measurements may tell us about bass extension
if far-field measurements are merged with near-field measurements. In
addition to this, ports may contribute to bass extension. Most of us
diy'ers do not have access to an anechoic room for full-range
measurements from 20-20000 Hz. What cannot be seen is what kind of bass
performance we get in a given room. Bass performance is highly dependent
on in-room placement of your speaker and the same speaker can be boomy
in one place and lean in another. Actual SPL level at 1 meter distance
and 2.8V input is useful for en estimate of system sensitivity and
combined with the impedance profile may give an idea of how powerful an
amplifier is needed to drive the speaker to adequate levels. What
measurements do not tell is the very sound of the speaker unless
displaying serious linear distortion. The level of transparency, the
ability to resolve micro-details, the "speed" of the bass, etc., cannot
be derived from these data. Distortion measurements rarely tell much
unless seriously bad, and most modern drivers display low distortion
within their specified operating range. Many people put way too much
into these graphs and my comments here are only meant as warning against
over-interpretation. There are more to good sound than what can be
extracted from a few graphs. Every graph needs interpretation in terms
of what it means sonically and how it impacts our choice of mating
drivers, cabinet and crossover design. What measurements certainly do
not tell is the sonic signature of the drivers, because cones made from
polyprop, alu, kevlar, paper, glass fiber, carbon fiber, magnesium,
ceramics or even diamonds all have their way of colouring the sound.

Above left: The 12W response without filter (red) and with filter
(green) but with no midrange LCR correction. In the beginning it looked
like we could omit the LCR circuit, but one the tweeter was in place,
things changed and we have a small notch around 1 kHz. Taming this area,
brought back the overall balanced presentation. Actually you can place a
switch on your rear panel to put on/off the LCR circuit if you want a
more forward sound. Also tweeter level could be adjusted by a switch,
making R1011 either 0R, 0R47 or 1R0. 0R is bright, 0R47 is balanced, 1R0
is slightly laid-back.
Right: Tweeter response w/wo impedance correcting circuit (LCR 1041).

Above left: Response from finished system w/wo midrange notch filter.
Right: Final system response from my preferred tuning, w/ notch filter
and R1011 = 0R47. My default for R1011 is 1R0.

Left: Horizontal dispersion at 0, 10, 20 and 30 deg
(red/green/yellow/blue).
Right: Vertical dispersion starting at point between drivers. Red = 0,
green = +5, orange: +10, blue = -5, yellow: -10.

Final system impedance and phase (green).
SPEAKER-KIT
BACK TO INDEX


Please source components locally. Jantzen Audio no longer supports this
kit.
CROSSOVER-LAYOUT
BACK TO INDEX

Crossover layout on rear panel.

Pay notice tweeter is connected with inverted polarity.

Due to limited space the two foil coils are supported by crates made
from 20 mm MDF.
All components are glued with
Superfix.

Left: Make sure not shorting any wires from using the foil coil
terminations.

Click image to view large

Crossover mounted on rear panel seen from
behind.

BACK TO INDEX
Wanna make the ultimate Discovery W12 version? The new beryllium dome,
D3004/604010, obviously fits the routing for the R3004/602010 ring
radiator.
Given the excellent mid and upper mid of the 12W midbass, the Be dome
even further enhance transparency and micro detail resolution.

Crossover layout is the same as for R3004/602010.

Point of crossover is ~2340 Hz. Orange graph is with inverted
polarity.
|